When Robert and Linda left Portland for Bordeaux, they weren’t looking for a long vacation. They wanted a real home – a place where life could unfold at a gentler pace. “We loved Paris,” Linda says, “but Bordeaux felt more livable. It’s refined without being overwhelming.” Two years later, they’ve found exactly that: a daily rhythm that balances beauty, culture, and simplicity.

Why They Chose Bordeaux

Bordeaux has the grace of Paris but with a smaller, more approachable feel. The couple was drawn to its blend of 18th-century architecture, walkable neighborhoods, and proximity to vineyards and the coast. “It’s just the right size,” Robert says. “You can walk almost anywhere, but it still feels like a city.”

They also liked that Bordeaux offers a quieter, more affordable lifestyle than France’s capital. The mild climate, reliable healthcare, and excellent public transportation sealed the deal. “We didn’t want to have to get into a car everyday.”

What Daily Life Feels Like

Robert and Linda rent a light-filled apartment near Place Gambetta. Each morning begins with Robert heading down to the corner boulangerie for a warm baguette and croissants. The baker now greets him with a cheerful “Bonjour, monsieur américain!” and an extra smile.

They eat breakfast on their small wrought-iron balcony, watching the trams glide past below. “We used to eat in the car on the way to work,” Linda laughs. “Now, breakfast takes an hour. It’s the best part of the day.”

After breakfast, they stroll along the Garonne River or wander through the Marché des Capucins, the city’s bustling covered market. “We buy fruit, cheese, maybe a few oysters,” says Robert. “You don’t shop here—you visit the market.”

Afternoons are unhurried. Some days they take the tram to the Jardin Public, where Linda sketches and Robert reads. Other days they hop on a train to Saint-Émilion or Arcachon Bay. On Tuesdays, Linda takes a French cooking class and has learned to make tarte tatin and duck confit. Robert has joined a group of locals who play pétanque by the river. “They call me Le Yankee,” he says. “And I still can’t beat them.”

Evenings in a Golden City

Bordeaux is at its best after dusk, when the limestone buildings glow golden in the soft light. Robert and Linda often meet friends. They have several now – some French, some fellow expats. They often meet for dinner at a neighborhood brasserie. Meals are long, relaxed, and filled with laughter.

“Dinner here isn’t about eating quickly. It’s about conversation,” Linda says. “You sip wine, you talk, and no one rushes you out.”
After dinner, they sometimes walk to the Miroir d’Eau, where the city reflects like a painting in the shallow pool, or stop for a nightcap under the stars. “The whole city feels alive but peaceful,” says Robert. “You start to move at the same rhythm.”

Adjusting to French Life

The transition wasn’t effortless. French bureaucracy tested their patience early on, and everyday errands required more language skill than expected. “But once you get past the paperwork,” Robert says, “you realize how well things work here.”
Their rent, food, utilities, and health insurance together cost around €3,000–€3,500 a month total for both of them. This is significantly less than their old life in Oregon. “We spend more on good wine now,” Linda jokes, “and less on everything else.”
Healthcare has been another pleasant surprise. Once they obtained residency, they joined France’s public system through PUMA. “It’s efficient, affordable, and humane,” Robert says. “That alone makes it worth it.”

Practical Tips

• Residency: Americans can stay up to 90 days visa-free, but long-term living requires a visa de long séjour, renewable annually.
• Healthcare: France’s public system is excellent and available to residents through PUMA.
• Getting Around: The tram and bus network is superb. No car needed.
• Cost of Living: Expect around €3,000–€3,500 per month for a comfortable life for two in the city center.
• Language Tip: Even basic French goes a long way. Locals appreciate the effort, especially outside tourist areas.

Now that they’ve settled in, Robert and Linda say Bordeaux has given them more than a new address. It’s given them a new way to live. “In America, we were always planning the next thing,” says Linda. “Here, we just live the day we’re in.”

Now, when they walk home through the quiet streets at night, passing shuttered cafés and the scent of freshly baked bread from the morning’s ovens, Robert and Linda often turn to each other and smile. “We came here for the lifestyle,” Linda says, “but what we found was a sense of belonging.” Bordeaux, they’ve realized, isn’t just a place to retire. It’s a place to live well, one golden evening at a time.